In Valdobbiadene, among the hills of Prosecco which is now a UNESCO heritage site, there is a road that runs through the vineyards. Then, at some point, a sign: Dov’è l’oste? From here, there are no other indications to help you reach the tavern where the innkeeper keeps the pantry stocked and then leaves: the “tavern without a host” or in Italia, L’Osteria senz’Oste.
The door is always open and the pantry is full of local delicacies. Cured meats, such as their homemade salami, bread, cheese, and wines, such as Spumante del Nonno and Prosecco col Fondo.
The Osteria works like this: you take a cutting board, slice the salami, drink the Prosecco and stay as long as you want. Each product has a tag with its value which means that it is a complete honor system. A cash register was installed so that you can ring your own receipt.
Like the owner himself, Cesare De Stefani, also the owner of Salumi De Stefani in Guia, writes on the Osteria’s website: “the name was randomly given to indicate this location on top of Cartizze hill, where I have an old farmhouse dating to the late 1800s, which remained in its original state and where it was customary, with my family, to bring friends and customers. I, therefore, decided one day, to set on the kitchen table (which was always open) 3 bottles of Cartizze and Prosecco along with 6 glasses and a tag marked ‘value 10 euros, serve yourself and enjoy a good tasting’. Subsequently, some passersby began to uncork a few bottles and leave lovely notes in other languages as well .”
The owner would like the place to remain exclusive and be known only by word of mouth, so as not to affect its magical atmosphere.
Other places to visit in Valdobbiadene!
Article by Ludovica Baldan